1st ROW - Back to the Drawing Board
(L) I pulled up three good views, as close to orthographic as I could find.
This top-down view should give me a good measure of the taillight widths and positions.
(CL) This near, side view gives me the best idea of the height, or projection, of the taillight from the cove.
(CR) This straight-on view will be matched to what I derived from Photomodeler.
In the end, I gave greatest weight to the PHotomodeler drawings, and just made adjustments to sizes and positions.
(R) And here is the layout for the inside (green arc) and outside (orange arc) taillights, based on a cone angle of 10 degrees (5 degrees from vertical each side as seen from a side view).
Then a simple drafting layout solution is done. The circumference ("1 rev") is doubled to make a doubled wrap cone shape from the pattern, a 31 degree slice of the total cone circle.
2nd ROW - The Final Set???
(L) I even discovered my taillight lens drawing was incorrect.
So I decided to also correct the bullet profile at the same time, making it a circular arc instead of hand-drawn.
The pink area is the rescaled old lens drawing before correcting the curvature.
(CL) Using the handdrawn curve, I found the midpoint of the hypothetical curve radius.
Actually, my three perpedicular radii did not go to the same intersection point, so I needed to do a contructed average. And that worked very well!
(CR) Only THEN . . . could I create my final drawing.
I created these sections to also place the lenses, the chrome trim rings on the end, and the placement and diameters of reinforcement bulkheads (bold black lines.)
(R) After all the work last summer surfacing the 3D model, I established some XYZ planes and oriented it to the model. Wow! it looks good from this angle!
March
1st ROW - 3T5 Paint Test
(L) Speed shapes with base color.
(CL) The same with a single coat of midcoat on one-third of the shapes.
(CR) Speed shape completely covered with one coat.
(R) Base coat on a 1/25 Corvair model. This gives a better idea of the metallic color and reflectance.
2nd ROW
(L) Corvair body with one coat of midcoat color. The clearcoat did not change it any.
(CL) Second test of 3T5 to see if I could lay down a lighter midcoat. The cap shows the midcoat color on a white ground color.
The Beetle on the left was my best attempt at a light coat. It looked dull until I applied the clearcoat.
(CR) Meanwhile I fabbed a gouging blade for the handdrill to cut hood vents. It was too course and uneven when cutting thru foam.
(R) Paint and drill bit happened while the spray insulation foam was setting in the Kamm cove form.
It was hard to build it up on the rim. It looks pretty ugly at this point!
3rd ROW - Carving the Cove
(L) After trimming with a blade the excess on the outside, came the samding with a 40grit disc on the handdrill and using my small handrasps to carve out the cove.
(CL) There were lots of cavities where the foam did not expand into. I applied a 2nd layer too quickly so that the 1st layer was not exposed to air and could not cure well.
This compares the first trial cove above with the second trial cove. The sheet foam is nicer to work with than the sprayfoam, but the contours make it more accurate to carve.
(CR) The final step in carving was shaping the ends. I glued a block on each end, traced my outline from the end view, then the side view, and sanded to shape.
(R) The side view and my tracing pattern.
4th ROW - 1st Bondo
(L) The ends, trimmed to shape.
(CL) A view looking into the cove from behind.
(CR) The first coat of Bondo.
(R) Hand sanding would take hours. I used a coarse disc meant for metal and got most of it sanded down.
5th ROW - Rear Deck Hood Vents
(L) My 2nd attempt to carve the rear-deck hood vents.
I shaped a scuffing disc to the vent contour, made a sliding holder for the drill, and slowly, carefully ran it along lines drawn on the foam.
Note the protruding pieces in the vents to reinforce the material inbetween the vents holes.
(CL) The final result.
(CR) The first three or four vents will need some fixing, and on a place or two the disc grabbed and went past the ending lines. All will be corrected at surface-hardening.
(R) The blue joints had to be cut with a matte knife and the blue glue dug out, or else it would have destroyed the shape of the disc.
April
1st ROW - Getting Ready for Glass and Top
(L) How small can I make a removeable top? Somewhere between the purple and the magenta versions. The figure represents my expected seated position.
(CL) The 3D surface model in eDrawing showing a cut in red thru the windscreen passing thru the front base.
(CR) Front view of combined cuts showing how side window curvature changes from front to back.
(R) Top view showing cuts thru windscreen and side glass. The bottom drawing shows how the curvature changes from bottom to top.
The green line represents the orthgraphic top view shape of the glass curvature at the level of the door window slit.