The Construction Diary
2025
JANUARY
...wellll....two months. From Thanksgiving thru New Years, we were out of town, involved in unplanned family events. It was a mix of sorrow and joy.
With the new year, I picked up where I left off, and began vacuforming the intake louvres for the rear deck.
I completed the pattern before Thanksgiving.
Because this is a short-run, one-off production run, I did not invest the time in producing a vacuformer.
So I set up a manual version...a very crude one... and began learning how to make it produce what I wanted.
My solution involved placing an old radiant heater under the frame holding the sheet of styrene, and also heating it from above with a hot-air hairdryer-type paint remover.
I then quickly transferred it to the pattern and pulled it down over the edges of the mounting box and turned on my shopvac.
Often I also needed to continue heating the styrene using the paint remover to allow the suction to pull it down around the pattern.
I was able to turn out about four an hour once I got it down.
When I had enough pulls, I cut them out of the styrene sheet and trimmed them to shape with a straight edge on the pattern.
They were then cut in half and placed in a louvre location on the foam body rear deck in the grooves I had dug out over a year ago.
I marked where they overlapped, and then cut the overlapped half at that point and used the overlap excess piece as a backing when I glued the two halves together.
That all worked and the seam between the glued halves still needed sanding and maybe some filler, so on to the next step.
The next step started by glueing the louvres into place.
I decided to use acrylic Gesso, like that used on artist canvases, and then putty the gaps left by the rounded corners.
After nearly completing one side, I had to confront the fact that the dividers between the louvres were all of varying widths, and almost none of them the correct width.
I started removing the worst offenders, which left the lesser offenders, which then became the new worst offenders.
Finally, I admitted that I would have to start anew and remove everything and start with a recessed area and make new dividers and correctly place them.
Ugh.
So I began cutting and shaping new dividers plus spacers to use between them when I glued them in place.
Meanwhile, inbetween glueing the louvres in place, I cut out the base plates for the nose emblem and the tailpipe exits and glued them to the foam body.
Once the louvres are done, I will be ready to do the final shaping of the body.
Then my back went out the last week of January.
FEBRUARY
Another irregularity I had to confront while doing the louvres was an inexactitude about left and right side measurements relative to the tip of the nose.
I discovered this again when I tried to trace the curved line across the rear deck so I could use that to locate my louvre spacing.
I found that my left-to-right line was NOT perpendicular to the centerline - in fact it was off by 1/2"!
So I spent an afternoon reestablishing a correct centerline, matching what I had previously found,
and then laid a steel right-angle on the flat area in the cabin opening to determing an exact right angle to the centerline.
I then cast a laser level line from the driver side along the perpendicular arm of the rightangle.
Then I cast a laser line from the passenger side to align directly to the driver side laser line.
Then I could mark where those two lines fell on my tape measures on each side of the foam body on the floor.
Then I could measure equally forward and backward along the body to fix my measuring points.
Using a bubble level, I established where the nose tip was on the floor, and using my now-aligned tape measures, set where the zero-point was from the front of the car.
Remember that I have two datum points along the length that I measure from: the nose tip (0") and the rear axle centerpoint (127" from the nose).
Check back for more progress!
The Build--2025
January
1st ROW - Creating the Louvre Pattern
(L) The full-length louvre molding pattern on the vacuforming box.
(CL) The initial setup showing the vacuform box connected on the side to the shopvac hose.
(CR) The setup of the radiant heater on the floor and the prepared styrene sheet holding frame.
(R) The frame mounted above the radiant heater.
2nd ROW - Preparing the Vacuform Sheet
(L) The different pieces (and steps) from styrene sheet to formed piece.
(CL) A good pull! The styrene sheet over the pattern.
(CR) A look-down view of the same.
(R) The side hose interferred with the ability to pull down the framed sheet over the pattern.
So I changed the shopvac hole from the side to the bottom and repositioned it on another table. That worked much better.
3rd ROW - Louvres Produced and Trimmed
(L) Here is the actual setup to heat and then pull the vacuform part.
(CL) Here is one of the better parts, compared to the pattern.
(CR) The first couple of test pulls.
(R) Here are the louvres that have been cut apart and overlapped in preparation for glueing.
4th ROW - Louvres In Place
(L) First view of the louvres in situ with the original varying-width dividers.
(C) View from above.
(R) A look-down view of the same.
5th ROW - Louvres Glued in Place
(L) Louvres being glued in place a half-dozen at a time and held in place with solid pipe weights.
(CL) A look-down view before they were glued in place.
(CR) A 3/4 rear view of the unglued louvres.
(R) And a rear-view of the same.
6th ROW - Nose Emblem and Tailpipe Bases
(L) The drawing of the bases was derived from my master drawing.
(CL) The driver-side tailpipe base in place.
(CR) Side view showing the placed nose emblem.
(R) 3/4 front view showing the new nose emblem base as placed.
February
1st ROW - Reestablishing the Centerline
(L) The centerline and the perpendicular laser lines as projected.
(C) The centerline is confirmed by the placed toothpicks along the centerline and by the front red and rear green lasers centered on each other.
(R) View from the passenger side.
2nd ROW - And the Perpendicular
(L) Looking at the perpendicular laser lines.
(C) Again, I laid a two-foot, right-angle along the laser centerline in the cabin area.
(R) I cast a new laser line along the 90-degree arem of the right-angle and another laser line from the other side so the two lasers centered on each other.
That allowed me to establish marks on the floor frame that would be the same distance from the nose of the foam body.
All I had to do is establish the location of the nose tip on the floor.